Published: December, 2017 | Updated: November, 2018
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Puglia, Italy

Best to get lost in the different villages, going in and out of churches, stop for the best coffee and cappuccinos, end the day watching the sunset sipping a Spritz for your aperitivo.
— Jennifer Tombroff
Jennifer Tombroff, Michel Tombroff, Brussels
  • More about your oliver guide:
  • Trip type: Adult, Group getaway, Beach
  • Activity level: easy
  • Ideal length of trip: FOUR DAYS WAS GREAT, ALTHOUGH STAY LONGER IF YOU CAN!

to & from

Depending on where you are coming from, there are direct flights from NY and most major European cities, but the most choices from London Heathrow, Rome and Milan into either Brindisi or Bari (the two largest towns in the region).

Where to Stay

We went for a friend’s 50th who had a house there, but guests stayed in different places South of Bari (one of the major towns of the area). This region is known for charming farm/country houses often surrounded by olive trees, vineyards or produce farms called Masserias. It can be fun to stay in this type of dwelling to get a sense of the region.

Where to Eat and Drink

Lecce: Capital of the Puglia region, known for it’s baroque architecture.

Cisternino: Coastal hamlet with white-washed buildings.

Ostuni: Hilltop town with white-washed buildings overlooking the sea.

Fasano: A town that encompasses both sea and field.

  • Trattoria Le Zie
  • Dopio Zero. Fun place. Portions are huge by European standards
  • Martina Franca
  • Cibando (wine bar)
  • Locorotondo
  • BBeP (drink)
  • Dock 101
  • La Capase
  • Enoteca Il cucco
  • Osteria Santa Ana
  • Tempo Perso (in a cave). Great food and atmosphere. When you book your table make sure to be seated in the in the cave portion of the restaurant.
  • Al Solito Posto Pizzeria.
  • Piazzetta Cattedrale
  • La Mela Bacata (bar)
  • Cafe Riccardo (bar just below Tempo Perso restaurant).
  • Anticalama. We did not go, but looks very nice and was recommended.
  • Ceglie di Messapica
  • Cibus. 1 star Michelin

What to Do

  • Best to get lost in the different villages, going in and out of churches, stop for the best coffee and cappuccinos, end the day watching the sunset sipping a Spritz for your aperitivo.
  • Monopoli: Lovely city with beautiful port with blue fishing boats.
  • Locorotondo: Old town which overlooks the valley of Itria with it's ancient typical Trulli houses.
  • Martina Franca: We did not go, but apparently wonderful town and good restaurants and shops.
  • Alberobello: Capital of Trulli country. It's actually quite small, and a bit touristy, buth worth seeing the ancient houses.
  • Cisternino: Lovely town.
  • Ostuni: We loved this town. Reminded us a bit of the Greek Islands with it's white walls and sinuous streets.
  • Polignano a Mare: Beautiful white medieval town on the sea. Beautiful restaurant: Grotta Palazzese.
  • Lecce: Beautiful town further south past Brindisi. Stunning baroque palazzi and churches.
  • Galipoli: worth a visit as well.

inside scoop

  • Best to go off season (May or September). Summer time must be VERY hot and crowded.
  • If you like red wine, order Amativo (mix of Negroamaro and Primitivo Di Manduria).
  • Internet is not the best.

skip it

We did not stay long enough to skip anything. There is much to discover in a way that feels leisurely.

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Puglia, Italy - Suggestions from the Oliver Community

  • Cynthia Pillsbury Says

    Fun to follow my cousin’s guide, as well as follow the lead of our Backroads trip. Here are some of our favorites:
    Lecce- This town is the “Florence of the South” – full of churches and baroque architecture (do not miss the Cathedral of Lecce!!) The town is spotless and full of shops and delicious restaurants. We stayed (per a recommendation by our travel agent, Polly Bade, Travel Untethered) at Patria Palace Hotel (https://patriapalace.com) — it was a perfect location and LOVELY! 1 day in Lecce is plenty– it’s a small town, so we took advantage of the hotel’s shuttle to their beach club– and spend a half day at the beach. Highly recommend it! Dinners were delicious, fun to wonder the streets one night and the other night we made a reservation suggested by our hotel at La Bocca (https://palazzozimara.it/la-bocca-restaurant/) one of our best meals of the trip. The outside courtyard is magical and the food is incredible. We also stumbled into this hip and delicious spot called 00 Doppiozero (no website, Via Guglielmo Paladini, 2) — the restaurant has a very cool vibe and was full of locals, which we always take as a good sign!

    We stayed at the lovely Baglioni Masseria Muzza (https://puglia.baglionihotels.com/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=gbp_listing) loved the pool and the el fresco dining area. The rooms are spacious and the beds comfortable. The sea side area near the hotel/Masseria is stunning. We had a lovely lunch along the Adriatic Sea and even had a time for a dip, salty and warm! This area is also full of vineyards; the wine in Puglia is dry and easy to drink. A dinner, again el fresco was one of our favorites at Vine Menhir Salento (https://www.menhirsalento.com).

    It’s with a visit to the white washed walled city of Ostuni. The town is slightly touristy, but it’s worth a visit for a lunch on a terrace. The other town that is worth a visit for an afternoon is called Aleberobello (World Heritage Site)– this is a town that hold importance during WWII for hiding Jewish people. It’s a very touristy town, but has thousands (literally) of small cone shaped homes called Trulli– most of which have been made into air B&B, restaurant or shops. Fun to see! A wonderful tour guide is a passionate local named Mimmo Patrizia Palmisano – mimmo@trulliepuglia.com

    From there we travel further north to the most majestic, charming estate, Masseria San Domenico. The grounds of this Masseria are perfection; surrounded by ancient Olive trees, gardens and flowers, everything is grown on the property (except for meat) and served at their lovely restaurant. The bar area is clubby and fun. The rooms are very old-school, large and full of charm. I could have spent a lot more time at the pool!!

    Last stop was at the almost hard to imagine town of Matera. This town was once the embarrassment of Italy bc of the cave dwellings, however how it is a preserved UNESCO site. There are thousands of caves and hundreds have been made into hotels and restaurants. We had the experience of staying at Sextantio le Grotte della Civita (https://www.sextantio.it/legrottedellacivita/matera/)– it’s worth spending one night in the cave (note only one window in the doors and or bathroom)…. it’s very rustic, but also full of modern amenities such as AC, electricity and plumbing. Make sure to take a tour of the Cave City!

    Puglia is rustic, charming, full of delicious food, interesting history and worth a visit for an authentic Italian vacation!

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