Lisbon, Portugal
Right near the Monastery is Pasteis de Belem. They are the original bakery who invented the custard pastry cups you will see all over Portugal. It is well known to have the best Pasteis de Belem in Portugal - it does.
- More about your oliver guide: Megan Shoflick
- Trip type: Adult, Family, Beach, City
- Activity level: moderate
- Ideal length of trip: A week
to & from
Fly into Lisbon from any major Europe or US City.
Where to Stay
We stayed at the Hotel Valverda which is on the main street of Avenida de Liberdade. Liberdade is a beautiful tree lined street and this location is great for shopping and the hotel was very nice. It is about a 20 minute walk to the water (think Castle, Time Out Market, etc). We probably would have preferred something that was closer to the night life in Alfama. Friends stayed at Memmo Principal Real and thought it was great.
Where to Eat and Drink
- Time Out Market – This is like Mercado San Miguel, except it is 10 times better. The restaurants all run around the outside of the market and then there are tables in the middle. You can get a nice meal and wine/beer and can try different things.
- A Cevicheria – Hip, seafood restaurant in the Barrio Alto neighborhood. Small and doesn’t take reservations. We went around 12:30 – 1:00 for lunch (right before the lunch rush) and were able to get in. Very good.
- Stasha Restaurant – Friends ate at it and liked it. In Bairro Alto. Make a reservation because it is a small place. Traditional Portugese. Food is excellent, atmosphere is fun. Reasonably priced (10 – 20 euros for an entrée, wine was about 4-5 euros per glass).
- Mini Bar – Jose Avillez (Famous 2 Michelin Star Chef with several restaurants in Portugal) offers small and varied gastronomic experience full or flavor and fun. HIGHLY RECOMMEND! Need a reservation.
- Sea Me – In Bairro Alto. Excellent seafood. Modern, upscale vibe. You pick out the fish that you want cooked for you. They also have sushi, but we didn’t have that. Reservations also necessary. There also happens to be a Sea Me booth in the Time Out Market
- Tapisco – Also in Barrio Alto neighborhood. Casual tapas bar with great food. We did not eat there, but friends did and loved it.
- LX Factory – Historical industrial complex with an array of arty retailers & unique restaurants. Fun, unique spot to check out.
What to Do
- Castelo Sao Jorge. Walk around the top of the wall. There is an inside exhibition as well but most is outdoors.
- Alfamo neighborhood – Charming area. Has some churches and squares, lots of narrow, windy streets with bars and cafes. Very hilly and lots of stairs. When you get to the top, there is a nice overlook with a great view and you can sit and have a drink. Some recommended the Se church, but we did not make it there.
- Bairro Alto – Lots of bars, restaurants, clubs. If you want to go to listen to FADO (local music) you can do it here. Good area to walk around too. If you keep going straight up the hill, you get to Principe Real which is a more expensive area but nice to walk around.
- LX Factory – In Lisbon, but probably need to Uber here. Cool, funky space under the bridge. Old buildings that have all been reclaimed. There are galleries, shops, dining.
- Cascais – About 25-30 minutes from Lisbon. This is the beautiful beach town. You can take a train out here or an Uber for about 20-25 euros (also not bad if you share it). We drove through on our tour, but since the weather was rainy and it was late already, we did not stop. Unless you have a lot of days in Lisbon, we’d pass.
- Bellem – about 6 miles from Lisbon, just past the bridge, on the water. You can take the train or an Uber (probably cost about 6 – 10 euro). There are two must-see sites here – the Tower of Bellem and the Jeronimo Monastery. We visited the Tower and decided to skip the Monastery.
- Buy the tickets to the Tower and Monastery in advance – I am not sure if you can buy them online or if they sell them at places in Lisbon, but we found a ticket booth not 100 yards from Bellem. Even if you have the Lisboa card (which includes unlimited train/bus rides as well) you will have to wait in line as if you didn’t have advance tickets. If you go to the Monastery first, you can buy tickets to the Monastery and the Tower there (and get 5% off). Also, you can go to the entrance for the Archaeology Museum (which is at the Monastery) and buy tickets there. The lines may be shorter.
- Right near the Monastery is Pasteis de Belem. They are the original bakery who invented the custard pastry cups you will see all over Portugal. It is well known to have the best Pasteis de Belem in Portugal - it does. Definitely worth going and sitting inside as there are a variety of baked treats. It looks little on the outside, but it is huge, so make your way in and find a table. There is also a line outside for take away which moves pretty quickly.
- Fado – Traditional Portuguese music. There are several places in the city to go eat and or drink and hear Fado. Ask the hotel for recommendations.
inside scoop
As you can see, everything in Lisbon can really be done on one’s own. We did take advantage of a couple of private tour options.
We used a company called Your Tours (email – bookings@yourtoursportugal.com) and did a private tour for the day. We hired a driver that took us to the Palace, Castle and Quinta da Regaleira. We then were driven along the coast and through Cascais. Trip included lunch and all transportation. Note that the guide did not accompany us into any of the sites. They also offer group tours if you prefer that option.
- City Walking Tour. This is a 4 hour tour of Lisbon, which we booked via the travel agent below. It included the Castelo as well as walking tours of Barrio Alto and Alfama. The tour was helpful for some orientation and was a great way to get some history of the City. It can certainly be done without the tour guide. One tip: We got to the castle early and there wasn’t a line for tickets. Not so by the time we left. Go early.
- Heard it is fun to do a side-car tour in Lisbon, but we did not do this. You can look it up on-line or your hotel can arrange it.
- There is bus and train service. The Lisboa Pass gives you unlimited rides. Most things are walkable and Uber is available and very cheap. There are also trams (think San Francisco). The 28 tram takes you all over town. Our guide suggested that you watch pick pockets on this tram, however.
What to Pack
Lots of hills and cobblestone streets – wear comfortable shoes (seriously comfortable)! Also, bring a sweater or wrap and sweatshirts for the kids because it can be chilly outside of city in the mountain-towns.
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Take a day trip to Sintra – Home of the summer palaces of Portugese kings through the centuries. There are multiple palaces and gardens. You can spend a day out here. Also you will walk a lot. Bring a sweater (or a jacket), it is in the mountains so can be chilly even when the sun is out. Also, I’d bring a snack in your backpack – the castles take a while and there isn’t much to eat (plus it is expensive).
- It’s about 30 minutes from Lisbon. You can take a train but can also Uber for about 25-30 Euros (not bad if you are sharing).
- A friend’s hotel advised them to go on Saturday, not Sunday (if you are there for the weekend) – they said Sunday would be more crowded
- Start at the Palace de Pena – it’s located at the highest point and then you can work your way down. It’s a must-see. Be sure to do the wall walk.
- From there you can walk to the Moorish Castle – another must-see we are told (we did not go). There is lots of climbing and stairs here (like the Great Wall – comfortable shoes are a must).
- Quinta da Regaleira. Kind of a neat spot. The owner spent 13 years building the grounds which include some caves that run underground, connecting to various garden components.
- Also Monserrat is supposed to be nice but is far from these other palaces. You can take an Uber between locations or I think there are bus transfers.
Also, combining your Lisbon trip with a trip to Algarve is a good idea.
Additional Oliver Guides to Portugal:
Algarve:
Lisbon:
Porto:
Sintra:
Lisbon, Portugal
Try to explore outside of Lisbon if you have time
- More about your oliver guide: Barbara Rees
- Trip type: Adult, Family, Beach, City
- Activity level: easy
- Ideal length of trip: One week
to & from
TAP, the Portuguese National Carrier, has direct flights into the Lisbon from the East and West Coast. The flight attendants have been named “the most handsome” crew by a popular London based magazine.
Where to Stay
There are so many options and it depends on how long you stay. For families, I recommend the group, Martinhal, with properties in Lisbon, the Algarve and Guincho. The Four Seasons has incredible service and is very old-world Portuguese with many staff members working there for decades. For a newer option, there The One which is well-located on Avenida Liberdade. Or for a perfect smaller hotel try the Valverde Lisboa. It’s also nice to start your trip outside of busy Lisbon in the seaside towns of Estoril or Cascais. From there you can take a 20-minute train ride along the coast into the city centre but your mornings or late evening are ideal for long strolls, bike rides, or runs on the 2-mile promenade from Estoril to Cascais. In Estoril, The Palacio Estoril has the feel of the Copacabana in Rio and is a little tired but still wonderful- make sure you take a room overlooking the pool. It’s one of the favorite hotels for European aristocracy, and has a connection to the James Bond films. Sadly, the Estoril Casino has been built right near it yet the hotel remains a quiet, elegant choice.
- The gym at The Four Seasons has a view over the city and an outside rooftop jogging track. The indoor pool is a beautifully designed space for pure relaxation.
Where to Eat and Drink
The Chinese Pavillion (Pivihlão Chinês) is a super cool bar with hyper decoration. It’s always been popular with locals (my husband is from Lisbon). Gambrinus is one very, very traditional Portuguese. Versaille for coffee and lunch in a beautiful atmosphere. And for Michelin try Fifty Seconds.
Garrett in Estoril is the place to be for breakfast, lunch and an afternoon aperatif.
Furnas do Guincho for a dinner on the ocean in the seaside area of Guincho- gorgeous, busy and food is delicious
What to Do
Culinary Backstreets has some fantastic foodie tours and I can’t recommend them highly enough. For fun shopping definitely go to LX Factory in a previous industrial area that is full of interesting boutiques and groovy places to eat. Also Time Out is a massive “food court” where you’ll sample every type of Portuguese food and other international selections. The tour books will list the major tourist site…may favorites
- Of course, visit Sintra, where nobles resided during the summer months to escape the heat of Lisbon. Visit the charming Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena) while having lunch at the Tivoli Palácio des Seteais. It's an 18th century palace which is now a hotel. The gardens are magical.
- The Ajuda Place is in Lisbon but slightly outside the centre but soooo worth the cab ride. It still preserves life of the royal family in the early 19th century.
- Grab a bike in Cascais and cycle to the beaches at Guincho. If you're a good surfer, it's world famous for its waves though not recommended for regular swimming due to currents.
- Keep the kids occupied with Clube Naval de Cascais for sailing classes that are fun and very popular for local families.
- Pedacos de Aventura in Estoril has a tree top ropes course that's a fun family activity. It's in a little park and my kids have done it many times over our summers in Portugal.
- If you want to experience Fado try Maria da Mouraria for dinner and song (Fado can be a little depressing-just a warning)
- Stop by Vista Alegre in Chiado for beautiful ceramics
inside scoop
Lisbon has become extremely popular. The fabric of the city has changed tremendously over the past decade due to the “golden visa” with about 40K foreigner’s moving to Portugal every year. The government has stopped the expansion of Airbnb within Lisbon and most foreign real estate investment needs to be made in other regions of the country. In the summer, Lisbon is very crowded and you’ll get a better feel of the authentic country outside of Lisbon. It’s better to visit in the month of May or October- avoiding last week in May with the UK bank holiday.
- The area of Chiado is busy and fun BUT on weekends can be an unattractive scene of binge drinking, partying young tourists.
- Be careful of the tile shops claiming antique tiles, go to reputable places, such as Cortiço & Netos
- Bordello Pinheiros (the gorgeous green "cabbage" ceramics) has an outlet one hour outside of Lisbon
- If the lines aren't to long the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is a visual feast for the eyes
- Stivali Lisboa boutique off of Avenida Liberdade- they have the best buyers and feature high end brands and others you may not have heard 0f- summer sale in July is fantastic
skip it
There is nothing Portuguese (any more) in the shops in the Baixa. It’s all tourist stores that are uninteresting and slightly sad in their efforts to commercialise anything remotely famous/traditional in Portugal. If you visit, don’t linger and spend time in exploring other parts of the city.
What to Pack
Hogan sneakers to make a casual look slightly more elevated. Can’t live without Argan Oil from Morocco to hydrate face on long flights. For travel thoughts and notes, Smythson Travel journal- super thin tissue-like paper that feels special. Cuyana carry on travel bags- good looking, well priced and designed for easy access of items during the flight.
Lisbon, Portugal
Go now! The secret is out, but it’s still a steal by European standards and there are so many amazing spots to explore.
- More about your oliver guide: Sarah Hart
- Trip type: Family, City
- Activity level: easy
- Ideal length of trip: About two weeks
to & from
Lufthansa from SFO/Frankfurt/Porto and back home from Lisbon/Frankfurt/SFO. We wanted to explore as much of the country as we could in 12 days, so rented a car for freedom and flexibility. We ditched our car while in Lisbon, then rented another for the drive south to The Algarve.
Where to Stay
- Residentas Apostolas: Beautiful, unique, apartments with fantastic location and gracious, helpful hosts.
- Martinhal Lisbon Chiado: Lisbon outpost for the Martinhal Family Resorts. Huge apartments in central Chiado location. Kids club and in-hotel café geared towards children. Recommend for families with preschool aged children or families that may want hotel childcare during their stay.
Where to Eat and Drink
- There are a plethora of fabulous, high-end, Michelin starred restaurants in Lisbon. Traveling with school-aged children, we aimed for a slightly more casual feel, and although we didn’t even scratch the surface, here are some of our favorites,
- Á Cevicheria: Excellent, creative ceviche restaurant. They don’t take reservations and the line to be seated can be long, but have one of their amazing Pisco Sours and know the wait is worth it.
- Cervajeria Romero: Get the garlic shrimp and goose barnacles! The barnacles are ugly, and briny, but in a good way. Be brave! Old school, family-run restaurant with crazy, fresh fish. There’s always a line, but its shorter for lunch.
- Fourno d’Oro: Need a seafood break? Probably not, but if you do, Fourno D’Oro has insane pizza and a fun atmosphere.
- Pastéis de Belém: Pastel de nata is a custard-filled pastry and the pride of Portugal. The most famous of these tarts are served at Pastéis de Belém, close to the Jeronimos Monastery from which they originally hail. Expect long lines and eat them while they are warm.
- Gelateria Nannarella: Best gelato in Lisbon, and maybe all of Portugal.
- Time Out Market Lisboa: Time Out Market Lisboa is a bustling, indoor food court featuring some of the very best Portuguese culinary vendors and restaurant outposts. Order from your preferred spot and coordinate with your family to snag a table, which can be especially challenging during dinner hours.
What to Do
- LX Factory: Formerly and industrial area, LX Factory is a cluster of shops, restaurants, galleries, and bookstores with an urban, hipster vibe. Unique boutiques and definitely a great place to for a few hours.
- Alfama Neighborhood: Steep hills with narrow, cobblestone streets and tiny shops and restaurants make this neighborhood perfect for exploring.
- Santa Justa Lift: Elevator built in the 19th century with sweeping view of Lisbon.
- Castelo de São Jorge: Hike up the hill to this amazing castle overlooking Lisbon, then climb some more once inside the castle walls. Beautiful views of the city and beyond.
- Belém: Great for a half day trip. Take a bus or Tuk-Tuk to this historical district a few miles from the town center. Don’t miss the Torre de Belém, Jeronimos Monastery, and Jardím Botânica Tropical and remember to stop by the Pastéis de Belém for their famousePastel de nata.
- So many great museums, but with kids, I’d recommend the National Coaches Museum and Musea Calouste Gulbenkian.
inside scoop
- Go now! The secret is out, but it’s still a steal by European standards and there are so many amazing spots to explore. Summer in the Algarve sounds amazing for a beach vacation, but we traveled in April and found crowds to be super manageable, and the weather great for exploring.
- Would love to have visited chic Comporta, but didn’t have time and summer probably a better time.
skip it
- Tram 28 in Lisbon, is super crowded, foul smelling and there’s a more than fair chance you’ll be pickpocketed. Walk, or take a car or Tuk-Tuk.
What to Pack
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Algarve:
Lisbon:
Porto:
Sintra:
Lisbon, Portugal
Os Gazeteiros - small trendy understated delicious gastro pub, from farm to table. My favorite - not yet in the guides!
- More about your oliver guide: Julie De Halleux
- Trip type: Family, City
- Activity level: moderate
- Ideal length of trip: 5 DAYS
Where to Stay
By plane, Lisbon airport is only 20 minutes from the centre. Better not to rent a car if you say in the city, rely on Uber or taxis.
- Memo Principe Real - in the heart of the trendy part of the city, quite, trendy, nice terrasse and views, delicious restaurant.
- Memo Alfama - wonderful terrasse to drink a cocktail during sunset, in the centre of charming Alfama neighborhood, close to the Sao George Castle.
Where to Eat and Drink
- A Cevicheria by chef Kiko : best ceviche ever! Go very early since they have a no booking policy and it is quite small ! Try the pisco sour…just one!
- Topo: on top of a Chinese shopping mall, surprising.
- O park : best cocktails bar on the rooftop of a parking lot..crowded in the summer!
- Punto Final : If you want to cross the Tagus by boat don’t miss Punto Final traditional fisherman’s tasca. Be there for sunset – the view on the city is fabulous.
What to Do
- Timeout Market : food market concept… a must!
- Go walking/jogging/bicycling along the Tagus and don’t miss to walk on the roof of the MAAT.
- The electricity museum close by is a good option with kids.
- Take a surf bus to go surfing in Caparica.
- Enjoy the shadow of the Botanical Garden in Principe Real. Then go shopping in the various nice concept stores around.
- Don’t miss the Great Aquarium at Expo if you travel with kids, and enjoy the views up in the cable cars with them.
- Get a tour guide in a tuk tuk and/or go watching the graffitis walls (there are also tours organized).
- Gulbenkian and CCB collections are a must.
inside scoop
- Best months to visit : May, June, September and October.
- Combine Lisbon with a trip to Comporta or Evora.
skip it
For the delicious pasteis de nata skip Belem (full of tourists).. and try Manteigaria (Chiado or Mercado da Ribeira), even better.
Lisbon, Portugal - Suggestions from the Oliver Community
Adding to Megan’s restaurant list, we really liked:
Rocco — great bar, all very instagram-able, make reservation ahead of time!—https://www.rocco.pt/
Gambrinus– super old school elegant–https://www.gambrinuslisboa.com/
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