Bariloche, Argentina

• More about your oliver guide: Courtney Leary
• Trip type: Family, Mountains
• Activity level: moderate
• Ideal length of trip: A week

to & from

For flights to Bariloche, fly out of the domestic airport, Jorge Newbery, which is only about 15 minutes from downtown Buenos Aires and very easy to navigate. Bariloche has a very small manageable airports about 40- 60 minutes from hotels mentioned below. Cabs are available if you have not hired a car in advance.

Where to Stay

• Puema Hue is one of those special spots on earth unlike any other you feel lucky to stumble on when you do.  Holding a maximum of 28 guests, Puema Hue, means land of dreams and that it is.  The massive grounds allow for amazing hiking, horseback riding, boating, kayaking and much relaxing. The staff is family like from the minute you arrive, always attending to your needs but in a very casual way.  The accommodations are nice but very low key.  All meals are taken in the dining room together at set times. Evenings begin with Happy Hour in the main house where guests gather around wine and appetizers and report on their day’s adventures.  PSSST… Be sure not to stay in the Mountain Cabin as it is too far away from the main activities.  Always ask for what you need be it a special diet, a ride across the lake for a hike, a horseback ride for a child with a broken arm…they will accommodate you
• Llao Llao Originally built in 1938, the hotel has the feel of an old world lodge and offers incredible views in every direction.  There is a newer building that is connected by a tunnel is closer to the lake which I may request on a second visit—though it is further from the amenities.  The breakfast buffet is incredible with waffle and omelet bars and the concierge service is great.  Be prepared for high prices and average food, but it is a very lovely place to call home in Patagonia.

Where to Eat and Drink

• La Masia: A very beautiful small restaurant with 5 tables and gorgeous view serving wonderful pastas and trout.
• Il Gabbiano: Located in a pretty little house within walking distance of Llao Llao this place will have you thinking you are in Italy. Menu includes superb pastas, especially the ravioli, and delicious trout. Don’t skip dessert, we recommend the Tiramisu.
• a href="http://www.elbolichedealberto.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">El Boliche de Alberto: Really authentic simple steak house with incredibly fresh and delicious meats and salad. The prices are not to be believed, very reasonable. Options to eat at their location in Bariloche or along the lake outside of the town. Skip town and eat along the lake if weather is clear.
• Patagonia Cerveceria:  This is a very cool and new spot with great beers, views and food.  Highly recommended for lunch, dinner or just a mid afternoon beer.
•  El Patacon:  Rustic winter lodge with great lamb and amazing service.

What to Do

• Golf: The course at Llao Llao is world-renowned.
• Hike: Both Puema Hue and Lloa Lloa have well marked gorgeous hikes within a stone’s throw of your bed.
• Spa: Llal Llao has a nice workout facility and spa. The spa offers children’s and teen treatments, perfect for a mother-daughter escape.
• Mano a Mano: Don’t miss this little sweater shop about a mile towards the town of Bariloche. The owner Gaby designs the sweaters herself and her styles are a perfect combination of current trends and Patagonian style.

inside scoop

• Argentina is very casual and Patagonia is not very warm, even in December. Pack lots of layers.
• Make dinner reservations a couple weeks in advance.
• No need to pack hiking boots. Running shoes with a good tread are good enough for all the hikes we did.
• Remember that Summer in Argentina is Winter in the U.S. and vice versa.
• Do not expect Argentina to be cheap. A few years back it was but now prices are comparable to U.S.